Spring bike service: 7 steps you can do / when to go to the service

How to Service Your Bike at Home

For basic maintenance, you only need a few pieces of tools (for example from Cycle Clinic), the right lubricants, and a bit of time.

Step 1: Thorough Cleaning and Visual Inspection

Start by carefully washing your bike and checking its overall condition. Remove dust, mud, and debris that may have accumulated during winter storage or previous rides. Wash the bike with lukewarm water and a special cleaner, such as Force PRO or Force E-Bike. Then dry the frame thoroughly and check for cracks, especially around weld areas. Inspect the cables and housings (for cracks or corrosion) and make sure no component is missing or loose.

Step 2: Chain Inspection and Lubrication

If the chain and drivetrain cogs are dirty from old lubricant, dust, or mud, they need to be cleaned and relubricated. First, remove old buildup using a degreaser (for example Bikeworkx Drivetrain Cleaner). You can use a simple chain cleaning device filled with cleaner. Before lubricating, check the chain’s condition. Use a chain wear indicator to measure its stretch.

When should you replace a bike chain? On 11- and 12-speed systems, replace the chain at 0.5% elongation. On older 8–9 speed systems, replacement at 1.0% is sufficient.

Treat a clean and dry chain with a suitable lubricant based on the conditions you ride in most often, or choose modern waxing (such as Dynamic Hyper Wax), which does not attract dust and significantly extends drivetrain lifespan. Apply the lubricant in a thin layer along the entire chain. It is best to apply a small drop of oil to each link while slowly rotating the pedals so the oil penetrates the rollers. Always wipe off excess oil with a cloth to prevent a greasy film that would quickly attract dirt.

Step 3: Checking Tire Pressure and Condition

The next step is a careful inspection of the tires and proper inflation, as rubber naturally degrades and loses pressure over winter. First, check the condition of the tires. If you notice small cracks on the sidewalls or visible aging damage, do not hesitate to replace the tires. The same applies to worn tread (on mountain and gravel bikes, worn tires show a loss of tread pattern; on road bikes, a flat strip appears in the center of the tread).

Inflate the tires using a pump to the pressure stated on the sidewall. The correct pressure depends on bike type, tire volume, and rider weight. Generally, for road or paved surfaces, inflate closer to the upper limit (harder tires roll more efficiently). For off-road riding, slightly lower pressure improves grip and comfort. A pump with a pressure gauge makes monitoring easier. While inflating, also check that the tires are properly seated on the rims. If you use a tubeless system, remember to refill fresh sealant after winter, as it tends to dry out and form clumps inside the tire.

Step 4: Replacing an Inner Tube or Tire in Case of a Flat

Discovered a flat inner tube or damaged tire? Replacing a tube is a basic cycling skill. Follow these steps:

• remove the affected wheel from the frame/fork, use tire levers to carefully remove one bead of the tire from the rim and take out the inner tube;
• repair the tube with a patch kit or replace it with a new one;
• inspect the tire inside and out for glass shards, thorns, or sharp objects that could puncture the new tube; sometimes protruding spokes or sharp valve hole edges can cause damage;
• if everything is fine, slightly inflate the tube, insert it into the tire, and refit the tire onto the rim;
• inflate the tire to about half the recommended pressure and check that it sits evenly around the rim, then inflate to full pressure;
• reinstall the wheel into the frame, secure the quick-release (or tighten the axle), and check proper brake function.

Step 5: Checking and Adjusting the Brakes

First, inspect the brake pads (for rim brakes) or disc brake pads (for disc brakes). For rim brakes, check whether the pads are excessively worn (the grooves should still be clearly visible) and whether the rubber compound is hardened or cracked. Squeeze the brake lever and ensure both pads contact the rim simultaneously and evenly. For disc brakes, check pad thickness—if the pads are thin or the brakes squeal while riding, it is time for replacement. Experienced riders may handle this themselves, but if unsure, entrust the job to professionals—malfunctioning brakes are not worth the risk.

Also focus on the functionality of the brake levers. When squeezed, they should offer adequate resistance and engage before reaching the handlebars. For mechanical (cable-operated) brakes, check that the cable is not frayed or sticking inside the housing.

Step 6: Checking the Shifting and Other Components

Shift through all gears and ensure the chain moves smoothly and quietly across the cassette and chainrings. Test shifting on the rear derailleur and, if applicable, the front derailleur. Shifting should be immediate and precise: when changing one gear, the chain should move cleanly to the adjacent cog or chainring without hesitation or rattling.

Also check all moving parts and connections on the bike. Take an Allen key and tighten all bolts (stem and handlebars, seatpost clamp, brake mounts, derailleur mounts, racks, bottle cages, etc.). Do not forget to tighten the pedals (if loose) and ensure the wheel quick-releases are firmly closed. Finally, inspect other components such as handlebar tape on road bikes, grips on MTBs (not loose or cracked), functionality of lights, bell, and suspension components on full-suspension bikes.

Step 7: Adjusting Saddle Height and Ergonomics

Even a small adjustment after a long break can cause knee or back pain. To check saddle height, use a simple method: with your heel on the pedal at its lowest position, your leg should be straight but not fully locked. When pedaling with the ball of your foot, this ensures an optimal knee angle. Also check the handlebar position and adjustment—for recreational riders, handlebars are typically a few centimeters lower than the saddle (much lower in a sporty road position; level with or higher than the saddle on a comfortable city bike).

Once everything is checked and tightened, take a short test ride around your home. Test shifting, brakes, compress the suspension, and listen for any unusual noises.

When It’s Time to Visit a Professional Service

Some bike components require specialized diagnostics, calibrated tools, and experience that many riders may not have. At our professional Axit store service center, we ensure your bike performs like new.

• Wheel truing – wheels must be straight, and spoke tension must be balanced. Professional truing on a truing stand eliminates lateral and vertical wobble. Proper tension checked with a tensiometer prevents spoke breakage during the season.
• Suspension fork and shock service – home care usually ends with cleaning stanchions using fork and shock oil. In our workshop, we replace lubrication oil, clean dust seals, and replace seals and hydraulic oil. Regular suspension service maintains sensitivity and protects internal surfaces from wear.
• Hydraulic brake bleeding – requires specific kits and the correct fluid; mixing mineral oil and DOT brake fluid results in irreversible seal damage.
• Bottom bracket replacement and e-bike diagnostics – creaking in the crank area often signals worn bottom bracket bearings. For e-bikes, we also perform motor and battery diagnostics, update firmware, and check contacts for oxidation.

A complete bike overhaul after several years of use is also recommended. In our workshop, we thoroughly inspect the bike, clean it down to the last bolt, check the frame for cracks, true the wheels, bleed the brakes, lubricate bearings, and fully adjust the bike. It is advisable to have your bike professionally inspected every 1,000 kilometers ridden to prevent excessive wear or accidents.